Thanks to Dan for a fantastic lunch at Crabtree's Kittle House. He treated not only myself, but my wife and son to a wonderful meal and we delved into the esoterica of the great wine list.

Spurred by a conversation about my wife not being a big fan of oxidative whites, Dan noticed there was some old Gravner (pre-oxidative phase) on the list.

1992 Gravner Ribolla Gialla was a fascinating wine. Having shed all that Ribolla baby fat florals and exotica, it was a focused and mineral-laden wine. Alternating between Chardonnay and Riesling character, my wife loved it and it expressed some deeper and more 'of-the-place' than Gravner's current style (that I do love.) Really intense vibration in this wine. Held through 3 hrs of lunch too.

1996 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Spatlese. Lovely nose with more fruit-driven Riesling character. Sweeter than expected - almost Auslese - with great acidic spine, mineral and sweet pear aspects. Great balance. Out of place with the other two whites, but the came roaring back with an incredible synergy with grilled veal tongue and coffee oil main course. Both the pairing and some time gave this a balance on either side of that spine and it really sang.

1991 Rostaing La Bonnette Condrieu. Found by me on the wine list and it leapt out since Claude Kolm told me years ago that La Bonnette was the 'other' Condrieu-y wine which aged well. Amazing wine. Intense nose with apricot and fruit kernel oil that was totally twisted by a palate-sense that was pure mineral. I mean, really pure mineral. A precise and controlled wine like perfect power tool that also had hidden layers. I loved this wine.

1991 D. Laurent Vosnse Malconsorts. Slightly dusty-to-lemony nose but a good presence on the palate. Balanced and mature, but also lacking Vosne-pizazz. I hate to say disappointing, but in the context of the 3 whites which just blazed, this really didn't.

We were really impressed with the food too. A scallop and soft shell with green garlic puree, frisee and smoked pimenton foam was outstanding.

Had a great time with Dan, visiting his shop (great design) and the old-fashioned ambiance of the Kittle House. Thanks again to him for the hospitality.

A.